This blog post features insights from Tom Croghan of The Vineyards at Dodon – be sure to visit them!

This past Saturday, May 25th, was National Wine Day, and what better way to celebrate than by exploring Maryland’s thriving wine industry? While you might reach for bottles from California or France when browsing your local wine shop, Maryland’s vineyards are producing exceptional wines right in our backyard – all while navigating the complex challenges of a changing climate.

Deep Roots in Maryland Soil

Maryland’s wine history runs much deeper than you may realize. The state that now produces world-class Merlots, Cabernet Francs, and Chardonnays has agricultural roots stretching back centuries. Some of Maryland’s wineries operate on farms that have been in families for 300 years, with several vineyards now thriving on land that once grew tobacco.

Today, Maryland is home to dozens of wineries across the state, from the coastal plains to the Piedmont region. These wineries are creating delicious local products while remaining at the forefront of sustainable farming practices that are helping mitigate the effects of climate change.

Climate Challenges in the Vineyard

For Maryland winemakers, climate change is here, and is already reshaping how they grow grapes and make wine.

“The wine industry across the globe is being devastated by climate change,” explains Tom Croghan, co-owner of The Vineyards at Dodon. “We’re dancing with the weather each year, adapting to patterns that are increasingly unpredictable.”

Maryland’s traditional climate once provided reliable precipitation – about three inches of rain  each month from November through July, followed by two inches a month in August, September, and October. That predictable pattern is disappearing, replaced by extreme weather events that can devastate crops:

• Unprecedented frost events occurring as late as Mother’s Day
• More frequent and intense droughts during crucial growing periods
• Torrential downpours that can drop several inches of rain in just 30 minutes
• Shifting harvest times as temperature patterns change

These challenges have forced vineyards to invest in costly adaptations. Some Maryland wineries have purchased machines to combat frost, improved their weather monitoring systems, and completely rethought their approach to soil management.

Innovation in the Face of Change

What’s remarkable about Maryland’s wine industry is that many vineyards are finding ways to thrive while reducing their environmental impact.

Several Maryland wineries are embracing regenerative agriculture practices that build soil health while increasing carbon sequestration. These approaches are yielding impressive results:

• Increasing soil organic matter from less than 1% to over 3% in some vineyards
• Creating soil that can store up to 75,000 additional gallons of water per acre
• Reducing tractor passes to cut carbon emissions
• Decreasing fungicide applications

Tom Croghan noted that these practices have transformed their wine quality: “When we started, our Sauvignon Blanc had a pH of 3.5 and titratable acid of 3.5, producing wines that were flat and flabby. Now, after implementing regenerative practices, we harvest with a pH of 3.2 and titratable acid of 6 or greater – the wines are dazzling and sparkle with flavor.”

A Global Movement with Local Roots

Maryland’s vineyard owners aren’t working in isolation. Several participate in international collaborations like the Porto Protocol and Living Vineyards project, which connect winemakers worldwide who are committed to mitigating and adapting to climate change.

These networks focus on practical solutions:

• Reducing the weight of wine bottles to decrease carbon footprints
• Implementing water conservation techniques
• Establishing ecosystem restoration projects that increase biodiversity
• Creating wildlife corridors that balance vineyard production with natural habitats

The goal of initiatives like Living Vineyards is ambitious: to have 25% of all vineyard land globally engaged in ecosystem restoration projects within five years.

Beyond the Vine: Expanding Sustainable Agriculture

Maryland wineries are diversifying their operations in ways that enhance sustainability while creating new experiences for visitors. Many are:

• Planting additional crops for agricultural production, such as apple orchards for cider production
• Establishing market and chef’s gardens
• Creating “secret gardens” with native plants that support pollinators
• Integrating animal husbandry with silvopasture systems where animals graze among trees
• Producing value-added products like jams, teas, and artisanal foods

These expanded operations go far beyond wine production. Currently, Maryland produces just 3% of the food consumed in the state, but many within the industry believe this could increase to 40% or greater with the right investments and practices.

Experiencing Maryland Wine

What does all this mean for wine enthusiasts? Simply put: better wine with a better story. The regenerative practices that help vineyards adapt to climate change also produce wines with more complexity, brighter acidity, and distinctive character.

Most Maryland wineries welcome visitors for tastings, tours, and events. When you visit, you’ll likely hear about their climate adaptation strategies and sustainability initiatives. Many offer wine club memberships that provide special access to limited releases and events.

Raising a Glass to Maryland’s Future

As we celebrate National Wine Day, let’s recognize that when we support Maryland wineries, we’re also supporting businesses that are leading the way in climate adaptation and sustainable agriculture.

This National Wine Day, consider raising a glass of Maryland wine to toast the dedicated vintners who are preserving our land while creating world-class wines.